On a good day in Venice, the place is absolutely magical. I guess I should count my blessings since I did not encounter acqua alta during my stay. But, a bad case of fog left me a bit puzzled.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 1000, 50mm, -2 EV, f/2.8, 1/8,000

The -2 EV was a mistake since it was a setting from a prior set of photos. So, the plan was to shoot San Marco from across the water–San Giorgio Maggiore. I like this one after converting to grayscale and adjusting the curves.

I must have dropped a coin at the Colosseum, because I just kept coming back and back and back.

After a tour of the Colosseum, I took this rather ordinary photo.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 160, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/25s

Fortunately, in winter, sunset comes early. After wandering around for about 20 minutes, I took another photo of the Colosseum from a higher vantage point.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 160, 70mm, f/2.8, 1/4s

Braced the camera against a ledge. However, with no tripod, the fun was soon over, so I headed back to the hotel.

The next morning, I headed out late. By the time I arrived at the Colosseum, the sun was just coming out, but the Colosseum lights had already been switched off. Oops.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 27mm, f/5.6, 1/125s

The third visit was the charm: Christmas tree, Colosseum lights, and rich, blue sky.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 31mm, f/4.5, 1/30s

The standard itinerary for the first time traveler to Italy is probably Rome, Florence and Venice. I did my homework by watching Rick Steve’s Europe. However, only when I hit the ground did the differences between these three magnificent cities become apparent.

Rome is big, but entirely walkable. In fact, I think traveling by foot is preferable to the bus or taxi, unless you are in a rush. Besides the big sights (St. Peter’s Basilica, Pantheon, Colosseum, Forum, etc.), there are a number of smaller places that are worth a 10-15 minute pause.

On the way to the Colosseum on morning, I passed by Emperor Trajan and his market.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 32mm, f/22

Expose for Trajan and the morning sky turns white. Expose for the sky and Trajan is pitch black. So, I took three shots at 1/10s, 1/2s, and 1/1.6s, and handed them off to Photomatix Pro to do its HDR magic.

Here’s a different shot Emperor Trajan.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 27mm, f/8, 1/10s

Exposed to maintain the color of the sky, but adjusted Shadows/Highlights in Photoshop to lighten the statue. I like the first one better.

Anyways, Rome is filled with places like this throughout the city. Every few blocks, you will see a building from Imperial Rome, an excavated site, or a Roman temple converted to a modern day church. Zip through Rome in a car and you miss all of this. The real excitement of Rome is the serendipity of encountering all these wonderful sites while on the way to some place else.

Before heading to Italy, I spent a lot of time in various forums seeing if I could narrow my lens choices to just one lens. I would not have picked a 24mm f/1.4, but a photographer more talented then me has posted some compelling images.

I took the safe route and brought along a 24-70mm f/2.8, which I used a lot, and a 14-24mm f/2.8, which I barely touched. So, between the two, I would pick the 24-70mm in a heartbeat. The only time I felt that the 24-70mm was not long enough was when I stopped in Venice.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 800, 70mm, -1 EV, f/8, 1/6,400

Meh.

Nikon D7000, Nikkor 18-200mm DX VR, ISO 400, 135mm, -0.3 EV, f/22, 1/1,000

I like the tighter composition and colors from the D7000. I could crop and photoshop the D800 photo to approximate the D7000 one, but that would be a waste of time. Both of these photos were taken at roughly the same location and time. If I were returning to Italy, I would bring the 28-300mm to see how it stacks up.

I went to the Vatican to see the Sistine Chapel, which does not permit photos. Frankly, I was underwhelmed. Everyone knows about the Sistine Chapel. I expected it to be magnificent, but was quite stunned at its diminutive size.

St. Peter’s Basilica was an entirely different matter.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm, ISO 400, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/30s

Rich, luxurious, and completely bathed in sunbeams.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm, ISO 450, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/25s

Kudos to the architect. The glorious sunbeams were absolutely breathtaking.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm, ISO 400, 14mm, f/2.8, 1/15s

Tu es Petrus indeed. Walk into St. Peter’s Basilica and you expect the angels to be singing Handel’s Messiah from the rooftops.

Around the corner from the Pantheon, I spotted this coffee shop located at the intersection of two quaint, Roman streets.

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 32mm, f/2.8, 1.0s

Considering how ubiquitous Starbucks is in the United States, I was really surprised at the almost complete absence of American fast food shops in Italy. I did see a handful of McDonald’s, but that was it.

After entering the Vatican Museum, I saw this gorgeous spiral staircase with a Christmas tree at the bottom. It was Christmas Eve after all.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 14-24mm, f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 22m, f/2.8, 1/4s

As I swapped the 24-70mm lens for the 14-24mm lens, I dropped the lens cap on the floor, which ordinarily would not be a problem. However, in this instance, the lens cap rolled, rolled, and rolled all the way down to the bottom of the staircase. By the time I reached the bottom of the staircase, someone had already picked up my lens cap and left it for me on the handrail. Quite embarrassing, but I was welcomed with this view on the way back up.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 14-24mm, f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 22m, f/3.2, 1/50s

For the best view of Florence, head up to Piazzale Michelangelo. To save time, I took a taxi across the River Arno to Piazzale Michelangelo. The car route is not the most direct route, but if you are determined to be there by sunset, don’t know the exact route, and are a few minutes behind schedule, then riding a taxi is the way to go.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 44mm, f/2.8, 1.3s

After the sunset, I headed to San Miniato al Monte, a Romanesque basilica located a few minutes above Piazzale Michelangelo, to enjoy the Gregorian chants. I just love the acoustics of old churches.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 38mm, f/2.8, 1.6s

The walk back to Florence is easy and all downhill. Before I crossed the River Arno, I took a few photos of Ponte Vecchio.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 40mm, f/8, 8s

Venice has a gorgeous waterfront. The location is absolutely magical because you can view the sunrise and sunset from the same place. Makes absolutely no sense, right? What happened to the sun rises in the east and sets in the west?

So, in the early morning, I headed out to Piazza San Marco. All the gondolas were parked along the water’s edge with the sun lighting up the sky behind San Giorgio Maggiore. This is why we hit the road early in the morning.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 29mm, f/2.8, 1/15s

At the right time, the buildings around Piazza San Marco are still lit, as the day awakens.

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 35mm, f/18, 10s

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 1600, 35mm, f/8, 1/8s

Then the sun washes across the campanile with its lush, radiant rays. Ciao bella!

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 24mm, f/4, 1/100s