Architecture

Trevi Fountain

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One problem I experienced while trip planning was trying to figure out the scale of Rome. How walkable was it? From Hotel Smeraldo, near Camp de’ Fiori, the Pantheon was really close by. Just continuing down the path, we then came across Trevi Fountain. Further down, we reached the Spanish Steps.

From the hotel, if we headed in a different direction, we could easily reach the Colosseum. However, walkable means different things to different people. Per Fitbit, I was logging 20,000-30,000 steps a day in Rome.

Anyways, on to the Trevi Fountain.

trevi-day

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 31mm, f/6.3, 1/160s

In the winter, the Trevi Fountain was not as crowded as I had anticipated. Access to the fountain was not completely blocked off by other tourists. Still, I had to selectively frame the shot to avoid the other people enjoying the view.

trevi

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 24mm, f/11, 10.0s

Of course, I returned during an early morning expedition. I saw one small group of tourists just off to the side.

trevi-light

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 26mm, f/18, 13.0s

Other than that, we had the entire fountain to ourselves. The fountain was nicely lit, so don’t be shy about stopping by during off hours.

trevi-crop

I cropped the second photo (above) so that you can see some of the details of the fountain.

Santa Maria della Salute

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When I was in Venice, I joined a photography walking tour with Arved Gintenreiter. This was my first time on a photo tour and I had a wonderful time. Sure, you can follow Arved around and get some great photos. But, the most worthwhile part of the adventure was learning from another photographer.

Every one has their own style and technique. And, seeing how someone else will approach the same scene was an eye opening experience. Arved challenged us with different assignments. So, instead of falling in the same rut where I will end up taking a similar photo time after time, I had to tackle different scenes which I would not ordinarily try, such as shooting into the light.

Here’s a photo taken shortly after sunset of Santa Maria della Salute.

santa-maria

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 58mm, f/10, 30s

At the time, I was so focused on the water that every shot ended up about the same. Sitting in front of the computer, I now wish I had taken one with more sky and less water just for the sake of comparison. Don’t get locked in.

San Marco in Fog

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On a good day in Venice, the place is absolutely magical. I guess I should count my blessings since I did not encounter acqua alta during my stay. But, a bad case of fog left me a bit puzzled.

san-marco-waterfront

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 1000, 50mm, -2 EV, f/2.8, 1/8,000

The -2 EV was a mistake since it was a setting from a prior set of photos. So, the plan was to shoot San Marco from across the water–San Giorgio Maggiore. I like this one after converting to grayscale and adjusting the curves.

Colosseum

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I must have dropped a coin at the Colosseum, because I just kept coming back and back and back.

After a tour of the Colosseum, I took this rather ordinary photo.

colosseum_4819

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 160, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/25s

Fortunately, in winter, sunset comes early. After wandering around for about 20 minutes, I took another photo of the Colosseum from a higher vantage point.

colosseum_4831

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 160, 70mm, f/2.8, 1/4s

Braced the camera against a ledge. However, with no tripod, the fun was soon over, so I headed back to the hotel.

The next morning, I headed out late. By the time I arrived at the Colosseum, the sun was just coming out, but the Colosseum lights had already been switched off. Oops.

colosseum_4858

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 27mm, f/5.6, 1/125s

The third visit was the charm: Christmas tree, Colosseum lights, and rich, blue sky.

colosseum_5074

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 31mm, f/4.5, 1/30s

Trajan’s Market

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The standard itinerary for the first time traveler to Italy is probably Rome, Florence and Venice. I did my homework by watching Rick Steve’s Europe. However, only when I hit the ground did the differences between these three magnificent cities become apparent.

Rome is big, but entirely walkable. In fact, I think traveling by foot is preferable to the bus or taxi, unless you are in a rush. Besides the big sights (St. Peter’s Basilica, Pantheon, Colosseum, Forum, etc.), there are a number of smaller places that are worth a 10-15 minute pause.

On the way to the Colosseum on morning, I passed by Emperor Trajan and his market.

trajan

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 32mm, f/22

Expose for Trajan and the morning sky turns white. Expose for the sky and Trajan is pitch black. So, I took three shots at 1/10s, 1/2s, and 1/1.6s, and handed them off to Photomatix Pro to do its HDR magic.

Here’s a different shot Emperor Trajan.

trajan-market

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 27mm, f/8, 1/10s

Exposed to maintain the color of the sky, but adjusted Shadows/Highlights in Photoshop to lighten the statue. I like the first one better.

Anyways, Rome is filled with places like this throughout the city. Every few blocks, you will see a building from Imperial Rome, an excavated site, or a Roman temple converted to a modern day church. Zip through Rome in a car and you miss all of this. The real excitement of Rome is the serendipity of encountering all these wonderful sites while on the way to some place else.

Italy, One Lens

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Before heading to Italy, I spent a lot of time in various forums seeing if I could narrow my lens choices to just one lens. I would not have picked a 24mm f/1.4, but a photographer more talented then me has posted some compelling images.

I took the safe route and brought along a 24-70mm f/2.8, which I used a lot, and a 14-24mm f/2.8, which I barely touched. So, between the two, I would pick the 24-70mm in a heartbeat. The only time I felt that the 24-70mm was not long enough was when I stopped in Venice.

venice-sunset

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 800, 70mm, -1 EV, f/8, 1/6,400

Meh.

venice-sunset-d7000

Nikon D7000, Nikkor 18-200mm DX VR, ISO 400, 135mm, -0.3 EV, f/22, 1/1,000

I like the tighter composition and colors from the D7000. I could crop and photoshop the D800 photo to approximate the D7000 one, but that would be a waste of time. Both of these photos were taken at roughly the same location and time. If I were returning to Italy, I would bring the 28-300mm to see how it stacks up.

St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City

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I went to the Vatican to see the Sistine Chapel, which does not permit photos. Frankly, I was underwhelmed. Everyone knows about the Sistine Chapel. I expected it to be magnificent, but was quite stunned at its diminutive size.

St. Peter’s Basilica was an entirely different matter.

St. Peter's Basilica

Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm, ISO 400, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/30s

Rich, luxurious, and completely bathed in sunbeams.

DSC_4736

Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm, ISO 450, 24mm, f/2.8, 1/25s

Kudos to the architect. The glorious sunbeams were absolutely breathtaking.

petrus

Nikon D800, Nikkor 14-24mm, ISO 400, 14mm, f/2.8, 1/15s

Tu es Petrus indeed. Walk into St. Peter’s Basilica and you expect the angels to be singing Handel’s Messiah from the rooftops.

La Casa del Caffe

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Around the corner from the Pantheon, I spotted this coffee shop located at the intersection of two quaint, Roman streets.

caffe

Nikon D800, Nikkor 24-70mm, ISO 100, 32mm, f/2.8, 1.0s

Considering how ubiquitous Starbucks is in the United States, I was really surprised at the almost complete absence of American fast food shops in Italy. I did see a handful of McDonald’s, but that was it.

Vatican Museum Spiral Staircase

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After entering the Vatican Museum, I saw this gorgeous spiral staircase with a Christmas tree at the bottom. It was Christmas Eve after all.

vatican-staircase-down

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 14-24mm, f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 22m, f/2.8, 1/4s

As I swapped the 24-70mm lens for the 14-24mm lens, I dropped the lens cap on the floor, which ordinarily would not be a problem. However, in this instance, the lens cap rolled, rolled, and rolled all the way down to the bottom of the staircase. By the time I reached the bottom of the staircase, someone had already picked up my lens cap and left it for me on the handrail. Quite embarrassing, but I was welcomed with this view on the way back up.

vatican-staircase

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 14-24mm, f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 22m, f/3.2, 1/50s

Piazzale Michelangelo

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For the best view of Florence, head up to Piazzale Michelangelo. To save time, I took a taxi across the River Arno to Piazzale Michelangelo. The car route is not the most direct route, but if you are determined to be there by sunset, don’t know the exact route, and are a few minutes behind schedule, then riding a taxi is the way to go.

Piazzale Michelangelo

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 44mm, f/2.8, 1.3s

After the sunset, I headed to San Miniato al Monte, a Romanesque basilica located a few minutes above Piazzale Michelangelo, to enjoy the Gregorian chants. I just love the acoustics of old churches.

san-miniato

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 38mm, f/2.8, 1.6s

The walk back to Florence is easy and all downhill. Before I crossed the River Arno, I took a few photos of Ponte Vecchio.

ponte-vecchio

Nikon D800, AF-S Zoom-Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8G ED, ISO 100, 40mm, f/8, 8s